7. March 2013 07:24
Passenger door printed and partially assembled, Driver door is now printing. I'm also trying a new way of printing, some people have tried printing on a pane of glass coated with hairspray, I tried this but the prints wouldn't stick to the bed, I was about to go back to the old way when I tired using the kapton tape on top of the glass (instead of on the aluminium bed) and it seems to stick better to the glass than the aluminium and it seems to last about 3x longer so I don't need to change it as often and I don't get any prints that have pealed the kapton tape off the bed.
17. February 2013 21:04
Had my second printer failure, the first wasn't noteworthy just a loose cap screw but this one took a bit to figure out. First the printer started logging cold extrusion prevented messages (meaning it thought the hot end was too cold to melt the abs so it just ignored that command to prevent the end getting clogged).
This got worse to the point where it would just stop after a while and log "printer stopped due to errors use m999 to restart". I pulled the wiring loom out and did a continuity check but everything seemed fine, even after moving the cable around to see if it only happened in some positions.
I was about to contact solidoodle when I checked again and found one of the sensor wires failed, don't know why it failed this time and not before but i changed the wire, soldered it in this time instead of relying on the crimp and I'm back in business again
14. February 2013 07:08
All done, this took a while (you might notice I ran out of black). Now on to the passenger door
9. February 2013 13:50
The 3D design tool I'm using is Autodesk 3DS Max 2011, this has the standard feature of creating cross sections of your object which is how I make the framework the panels sit on.
I first give the object depth so the printed sections will sit flush on the framework, then create the sections, no real science with this just as many as I feel are needed to keep it true but i do offset their positions so they do not line up with where my extruded edges will be (otherwise I'll need to manually take more off the outline in order for the sections to sit flush)
I then export the shapes to another program (I can't seem to find a print to scale option in 3DS max so I use another very simple CAD program called AllyCad) and print them out to scale (normal printer that is). With these I transfer the shape to MDF and cut it out (you could use a 2 axis CNC machine for this but a jigsaw works just fine)
These are then glued / screwed together using square blocks to keep it square.
There's a good youtube video about this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTg5kpzXkJg
8. February 2013 19:30
...still assembling though, this time I'm trying to assemble the border first then work in. With the boot I did one layer rows and attached them from the top and bottom in, I was surprised when there was a gap in the middle, I was expecting with the 0.5mm rail the printer prints that I would have to sand it a bit to fit snug.
I put this down to the inaccuracies created when the print peals off the bed (due to inconsistent cooling rates) when it rises off the bed it also distorts out or in so if you don't compensate for this when you attach it all together you end up with things like this.
I've got some weights on it now so I'll take an in-progress picture later, for now here's a picture of my 250 GTO kit I built 10 years or so ago, it's also got the RB25DET in it that I'm planning to use in this (but I would like to transplant the v12 from a 750 I have been sporadically working on into it one day, hard to work on something that's already working though)