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by Ivan Sentch 7. August 2017 07:53

I've finished assembling the body (see below), next I'll make some fibreglass resin "peanut butter" to fill in the cracks (mix resin with chopped fibreglass and some other structural thickener) then I'm thinking painting the exterior in a thinner version of this ("mayonnaise"?) to add a bit of strength to it along with fiberglassing the inside edges to stop them flexing too much when I sand.

After this I'll add a few layers of something easily sandable (gelcoat or Duratec EZ Sanding Primer or something similar) then begin sanding

Just a side note, I've been using (a lot of) Tamiya ABS "glue" to stick these parts together - it's pretty good, it dissolves the surface of the abs and when it dries the two are welded together (so not actually glued) and this bond is stronger than the parts themselves.

However, I found supplies of this waning locally and stumbled on a 3D printing recipe: 50ml acetone with 3 meters of the 1.75mm 3D printer filament I had left over. Leave this in a (sealed) jar for about 24 hours and you have the best abs glue, far better than the Tamiya stuff - the bond is the same (as it's still welded abs) it dries in about 5min and I've even painted it on the surface of the 3D printer (I had a few missing pieces I had to re-print) which sticks the parts down really well (much better than the hairspray method I was using before - wish I would have stumbled on this sooner) but I would caution it's use for normal 3D objects - these were really really stuck down, they came off for me because they are only 5mm wide, if you had a bigger surface area you would not get them off


Body | 3D Printing

On hold...

by Ivan Sentch 25. February 2014 16:09

...or at least very slow progress at the moment. Finding it hard to find time now that I have to drive out to do anything on it. Things will pick up again when I'm in the new house and it's back in my garage (Sept)



Slicing up the 3D object

by Ivan Sentch 1. October 2013 14:55

I've had a couple ask about this so here's what I've found (I don't do this professionally so this is just what I've discovered by playing around)

First off the object needs some depth, 3DS Max has a shell tool that you can specify a inner or outer shell depth (I think this tool effectively clones the object, scales it out or in then applies edges or sides) anyway it's pretty easy so long as you have a clean object with all the polygon normals facing the same way (normals:

3DS Max has a slice tool which is a plane you can move and/or rotate then create a slice, I usually slice from the middle out in one direction (top/bottom, left/right or front/back) in 105mm jumps as below 

Then once I've done all the slices along an axis they need to be detached and capped (use the element selection tool to select and detach a section and use the border selection tool to select and the cap tool to cap the open faces)

Sometimes this can get confused, this is usually because there is more than one angle in the open faces (i.e. if you've sliced multiple separate elements at once or if you slice more than one axis without capping it) but what it tries to do is cap both angles at once but it is never right (see below) 

This cannot be printed like this so you will need to fix it, to do this use the polygon selection tool to select the incorrect face and delete.

Then using the edge selection tool select the 2x end most edges on one angle then use the bridge tool to make a polygon from the 2x edges

Now using the border selection tool again select the edge (which now will be constrained by the polygon you created) and cap

So using this theory do another axis (remember to cap all the sections before moving onto the last axis or you'll have the issue I raised above)

Then the last axis

Now you've got all the sections which you need to rotate (to an appropriate angle that can be printed), align as many as you can into single print jobs, export, re-align (I use ReplicatorG to "center" and "put on platform" - this is so it's centered for the printer otherwise it'll try to go 2km to the left and break), convert it to GCode (I use skeinforge, takes about 2 hours but that's ok) and it's ready to print

(You may have noticed I've done the dash, I'll start printing that soon)


3D Printing | Design

Body printed

by Ivan Sentch 22. September 2013 19:47

The body's now fully printed and I've still got 12x 1kg reels left for the dash so that means the doors, boot, bonnet and body have taken 52x 1kg reels. No more assembly yet because I've been busy moving out of our house (which is done now & both cars relocated to their new home for the next year).

I'm preparing a post on how I slice up the parts which a few people have requested coming up soon


3D Printing | Miscellaneous

Printer back online

by Ivan Sentch 10. August 2013 13:48

The printer extruder got blocked a couple of weeks ago but while trying to unblock it I broke it and had to order a new part, the new parts have arrived and it's back online, printing has resumed!!! 46 days of rapid printing left before I need to relocate, that should be enough to finish the body and 30% of the dash

On the assembly front nothing has been done, with the house and the media coverage lately I've had no time, but I'm back into it now so if I'm a bit tardy replying to you it's because I'm trying to get some traction (I will eventually you'll just need to wait a bit)

For those coming in from the yahoo article, I'm not putting a bmw v12 in this (that's going in the 250 GTO I built a few years ago) also I'm printing a plug not the body of the actual car, also also once I've finished I still have about 5 years before I'm actually done (yahoo got it a bit wrong)


Body | 3D Printing