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Replica DB4 Project
Passenger door assembled, driver door mostly printed (about another 3x days left). I'm falling a bit behind in assembling vs printing but that's ok
when I look at this door, it seems like the printed parts are not aligned very well (at least at this stage).
Will that be a problem later or can it be solved? I've seen in the black printed parts that you have put some product on the joins and seem to have smoothed this out?
Would adding a tongue-and-groove to the side extrusions help? Might be tedious to add manually to all the part models though.
Yeah this has been one of the learning curves, the achilles heel for me in 3d printing has been keeping the prints stuck to the bed (as my prints are usually very tall and skinny). Due to the contraction forces when the plastic cools if the base comes loose (usually at the outer edges) it curls upwards
This in itself is not an issue (you'd just have little gaps where it curled up) but this also distorts the area above it slightly (so the flat 90 deg verticle edge becomes 90.5 deg) and if you glue many of these distorted bits together it has a cumulative effect and results in the gaps you observed.
I need to cover it all in auto body filler anyway as the plastic is too rouh for a mold - as you noticed on the bonnet (but the whole thing will need to be covered and sanded back, the bonet was just a test to see if auto body filler would work) so these imperfections will be sorted out then
I have however come up with a setup that keeps the prints on the bed 99.9% of the time (though trial and error): heat resistant glass on top of the alloy bed, kapton tape stuck to the glass (kapton tape seems to stick better to glass than the alloy bed which was 90% of the failures) and apply a layer of hairspray which helps the plastic stik to the kapton tape. Also running the bed at 95 deg (more and the straight prints bend as it cools and less and the print just doesn't stick)
thanks for the information
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